Train to El Nariz del Diablo [Travelblog]

[beelikej]

At 05.30 a.m. I'm ready for breakfast, that officially isn't served until 6 a.m., but a very awake young guy is bravely taking care of toast and tea. Most travellers want to get to the station as early as possible, but at the last minute I'm served some scrambled eggs that I can't resist.
I get to the train a little past six and the roof is already pretty crowded. I do notice some room to sit, but the group of germans that's up there (with an Ecuadorian guide) doesn't agree with me. Luckily there is a very nice french woman sitting next to them: she wiggles her butt and creates a space for my cushion: HA!
Because there are so many people today (the train rides three times a week) an extra waggon is added, I'm glad I already found a place to sit. The train leaves kind of on time (around 7 a.m.) and it is indeed chilly on top. But with gloves on and my hat as protection against the wind it is quite nice. The ride is impressive: the view is beautiful, the atmosphere is great and I'm having a very good time.

At 9.00 a.m. the train stops for about fifteen minutes in Guamote, where I can't resist the smell of freshly baked empaladas: fried batter filled with cheese (or bananas) for 25 cts: yum.
The ride continues past more gorgeous landscapes and other fun stuff: we see sheep standing tied on top of busses, everyone laughs until we realise that we are also kind of crazy sitting on the roof of the train. D'oh :-D

At 11.30 a.m. we arrive in Aluisi, the first and last stop on the loop past El Nariz del Diablo. While some more people get on the train for the final part of the journey, a busdriver is already selling tickets for the connecting bus to Cuenca. I want to travel to another -smaller- town and I'm told I need another bus for that, so I can't make reservations. (more on that later...)
The last part of the tracks is as spectacular as can be and we take a lot of time zig-zagging past the highest point. Because of the extra waggon, the locomotive has to change positions a couple of extra zigs to get all of the train past the mountain. But even though people are getting tired, everybody is still having fun, especially when at the final turn a mother and child almost don't make it back on the train. That was really hilarious;)

Back at the station in Aluisi it's hectic and it takes a while before everybody has got their own backpacks (these were locked in a compartment during the ride). Then I find out there are only two busses to transport all of the people to the south. Both are officially going straight to big city Cuenca and will not stop in smaller towns. Because I don't want to stay in almost abandoned Aluisi I decide to get on the bus anyway, even though it's very crowded and I have to stand all the way (about four hours...) Grumble.
After about two hours I'm guessing we're close to the town I want to go to and I ask the driver if he can stop to drop me off...

There are a couple of reasons why I want to spend the night in middle of nowhere Cañar:

• it's close to Incapirca, where I want to go tomorrow (from Cuenca I will have to travel back for two hours);
• my back is hurt from sitting in strange positions on the train all day and even though it's a blessing in disguise that I have to stand on the bus, I will not be able to stay on my feet for much longer;
• according to my calculations it's at least another one and a half hour to Cuenca (the rest of the passengers -don't get me started- think we're almost there by the way) and it's already 7.00 p.m. and it's starting to get dark;
• to find a hotel in a town where all of these tourist have to find a place to sleep at the same time will take forever
• and last but definitely not least: for Cañar I have the adresses of two hotels with tv and I know tonight CSI will be on TV Amazonas... how can I ignore that? *g*

So I get off the bus while the other passengers stare blankly out the window (suckers) I talk to two townladies who are very enthousiastic and helpfull. They don't know the adress, but find me a 'taxi-driver' (some kid from the neighbourhood with a car;) who does know the hostal. From his reaction to the adress I understand he doesn't agree with my choice: on the way there he points out two other places and when we get to hostal Incapirca I understand why: it is quite run down and grubby. But it's also very cheap AND there is a tv in my room, so I decide to spend the night anyway. And of course the trainride was the absolute highlight of today and this vacation, but I'm also enjoying my night in bed with CSI very much *g*. (It's S4Ep17 XX -in spanish- and I know just how those women in prison feel when they see Nicky;o)

Next day: Incapirca and on to Cuenca

Pictures week 3