Worktrip to Zadar, Croatia
Nov. 3rd, 2025 10:27 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
beelikejLast week I went on an international worktrip to Zadar in Croatia, a country I never visited before. When I was traveling Europe back in the 1990s, Croatia was still part of Yugoslavia and that whole area was in the middle of a civil war. (Croatia declared independence in 1991 and the last occupied areas were restored in 1995).
My Dutch colleagues and I flew into big city Split and from there drove to Zadar, which is about 170 km to the North. On the way we stopped at Vransko Jezero (Lake Vrana), a nature reserve, where we spent the late afternoon bird-watching before driving on to our hotel.
On Sunday I explored the old city centre of Zadar with my British colleagues and we caught the ferry across the Zadarski Kanal to climb to a viewpoint in Preko, on the Ugljan Island. Back in Zadar we saw one of the most amazing sunsets EVER.
The conference took up most of the time from Monday to Friday and it was dark early, but I did manage glimpses of a few more of the famous sunsets. During the week I had to present quite a few briefs. I had a side meeting with the delegate from Sweden on Monday evening, but on Tuesday evening we all got to go into town for a guided walking tour in the dark. On Wednesday I swam in the -very cold- seawater pool, just before the fancy hosted dinner. Best thing on Thursday was the green apple icecream I had for dessert. On Friday I went to a supermarket, that's always exciting in another country ;-).
After a very fruitful week we traveled back home on Saturday, with a short stop at the Krka river viewpoint for a final goodbye of Croatia.
I made tons of photos, here's a selection (check out the sunsets!!!).
Day 1: Travelday(s) from the Netherlands to Croatia
Actually my travel started on the Friday before, because the Saturday flight left too early for me to get there by train on time, so I stayed in a hotel overnight, which was only a 7 minute busride away from the airport.
I was very proud I once again managed to fit my laptop bag inside my backpack, making it much easier to carry all my stuff. The hotelroom was nice and cozy, but very hot, pff.
It was a massive, funky hotel with neon lights all over and floors divided by letters. There were four (4!) restaurants, I picked the 50s styled bar and got loaded fries with beef and pear, delicious! Was glad I carry my own plastic spork everywhere, because it was served with a gross wooden fork. *shivers*
See? Massive!
Saturday breakfast: orange juice, scrambled eggs, a pancake with Dutch sugarsirop, a chocolate pastry, yoghurt & cornflakes.
Bit of a surprise at boarding: I was moved to an emergency-exit seat with extra leg-room!
Only a two hour flight, but we did get a snack (two slices of wheat bread with eggsalad) and I did a bit of reading before dozing off.
Hello Croatia!
Sights on our drive from Split to Zadar. I was relaxing in the back seat :-)
Our lunch stop: M. and I had a massive mixed-grill that could have fed five people (yes, we finished all of that *grins*) Miješano meso: kotlet, kobasica, pileći file, 4 čevapa (Mixed meat: cutlet, sausage, chicken fillet, 4 kebabs)
Around 16:00 (4 p.m.) we reached nature reserve Vransko Jezero (Lake Vrana) were we went bird watching.
With two bird-nerds in our group we discovered a lot, I had a great time :-)
After that nature walk we drove around the lake from Crkvine to Kamenjak on the other side, were we got out of the car again and started climbing following these crosses to the top that lead to tiny Crkva Svih Svetih (Chapel of All Saints)
We took the educational path to the viewpoint, learning about the karst relief, also known as 'the stone desert'. Under the influence of water, steep limestone cliffs are gradually transformed into cracks, crevices and vertical cuts resembling furrows in solid rock. The karst of Kamanjak is unique because various developmental karren stages are present simultaneously and over time merge with one another.
The view over the lake (and the Vrgadski Kanal + Adriatic Sea in the distance) and my first sunset in Croatia, aaahw.
We arrived at the hotel in Zadar around 19:30 (7:30 p.m.). I had a lovely double room with a balcony (with I will show later). Also: a bath, yay! (You can just see it, in the corner)
After that huge mixed-grill lunch I didn't feel like a full dinner, but I couldn't resist the dessert table :-D. Had orange juice and sour cherry juice with chocolate pudding, a red fruit crumble and chocolate mousse layer cake.
A splendid end to a splendid travelday!
Day 2: Exploring Zadar and the ferry to Preko
I woke up at 6:30 and took a photo of my balcony with its wooden sunscreen. (Around the edges there is a lovely view, which I will share later).
I want back to bed for a while, then had a big breakfast, trying all the things from the buffet: scrambled eggs, tortilla, Bučnica sa sirom (homemade cheese pie), a salty sausage, rice and bread. Also: orange juice and raspberry yoghurt...
... and fruitcocktail, bananabread plus pastries. *rubs belly*
Hotel pool. My room is right in the corner where the buildings meet, behind the two tall trees, on the third floor.
I went into town with my British colleagues. Check out that cool pothole cover with Zadar's coat of arms. Later I also discovered a more graphic, modern version (I will share that in my Instagram).
The old city Land Gate (1543) and the citywall with the marina just outside.
You can walk along the citywall to the boulevard near the waterfront.
Trg Pet Bunara (Five Wells Square), dating back to 1574.
Monument for Baron Ludwig Franz von Welden who established the first public park in Zadar within Bastion Grimani in 1829.
From the bastion looking out over Trg Petra Zoranica with underneath glass some archeological finds of Roman foundations.
The outer wall of the bastion.
The roman pillar on the square was moved there from the forum site (see below) to indicate the beginning of the main street (which has three different names). Behind it the tower of Crkva sv. Šimun (Church of St. Simon, 5th century).
Spotted in an alley off mainstreet.
Crkva sv. Donata (9th century Church of St. Donatus - after a misunderstanding about the name, we called it the Donut church :-D) and the Campanile di Sant'Anastasia (12th century bell tower)
Benediktinski samostan sv. Marija (11th century Benedictine Monastery of St. Maria)
Roman forum, built between the 1st century BC and 3rd century AD under Emperor Augustus. It was the centre of public life, with temples and council chambers.
After walking around through history, we ended up at the waterfront, looking out over the islands across the Zadarski kanal.
We sat down on these marble steps, listening to the soothing sound of the Morske orgulje (Sea Organ) designed by Nikola Bašić. A system of tubes underneath take in the waves that push the air out through openings on the side of the steps and on top of the pavement, creating panflute like music.
Right next to the steps of the Sea Organ is part two of Nikola Bašić art piece: a 22 m diameter circle of solar panels, forming art installation Pozdrav suncu (The Greeting to the Sun), that comes alive at night with a light show. Wikipedia page about the monument.
We continued our walk around the Zadar peninsula to the harbour site; gate Vrata Sv. Krsevana.
We had planned a lunch before our ferry ride, but it took so long to prepare, we could just about have the servers make it a to-go package to take with us on our run to catch the ferry across the street. Made it with our chicken nuggets :-D
Ferry to Preko on Uglian Island.
Passing Ošljak Island.
Statue of St. Michael, the patron saint of Preko (by Antona Jurkića, 2017)
We decided to climb to the nearest viewpoint, about 1.5 km.
We passed lots of olive trees along the way and had a great view of Ošljak Island and Zadar in the distance.
Made it to Vidikovac Napoleonova kapa (Završće), the Napoleon's Hat viewpoint, so named because of the shape of Ošljak Island. Završće was a rest area in ancient times, where farm laborers woud rest on their way back home from the olive groves.
We took the big car ferry back to Zadar (can you spot the viewpoint?)
This ferry doesn't go to the city side, but docks at the bigger harbour in the south. We took a bus to get back to the hotel. Here's my loot from today, including a few Croation euro coins :-)
After a quick fresh up, I met up with A. for a walk along the boulevard to watch the sunset (prepare yourself!).
We came across the statue of Croatian malacologist Špiro Brusina (1845-1909).
And then it was time for... THE SUNSET:
After dark the Pozdrav suncu lightinstallation lit up. I did make a video, but there are too many kids on it, so I can't share it on YouTube. It was a great experience with the sound of the Morske Orgulje from the water and the AMAZING sunset in the background as well. *heart eyes*
A. and I met up with M. and together we wandered through town looking for a place to eat.
Stup srama (Pilar of shame), Erected by Bulgarian Emperor Ivan Asen II in 1331.
Two of the three Roman Effigies, dating back to roman times.
Katedrala sv. Stošije (Anastazije) - Cathedral of Saint Anastasia (12th century)
Dinner: Spaghetti Carbonara and a Sunrise Mocktail.
Dessert: Cheesecake icecream!
I ended the day in a luke warm bath to soak my tired legs and feet.
An excellent day.
Day 3-7: Workweek breakfasts, lunches, and dinners
As I said I didn't have much time to go out, except for dinner (breakfast and lunch were served at the hotel, which was also the site for our conference). So this is mostly photos of food :-)
As promised: the view from my balcony! (6:52 a.m.)
Monday Breakfast: omelet, scrambled eggs, salty sausage, bread and Okruglice sa Šljivama (Plum Dumpling)
Lunch and Dinner: Pizza Gušti (tomato sauce, mozzarella, ham, bacon, sausage, dry neck pepperoni, olives, marinade, basil)
There was a thunderstorm on Monday night with lightning over the islands!
View through the balcony shutter.
On Tuesday morning I have some free time, because there is an optional brief I can skip. (It's mostly a sales pitch for a program I'm not working with;-)
Yesterday evening I wrote some postcards, so I'm off to the post office.
It's about a 15 minute walk.
Uh-oh, what letter do I need to push for the right queue ticket? Fortunately an old lady walks in who helps me out when I wave my postcards at her.
The man at the desk puts stamps on them and stamps them too! (They arrived in the Netherlands on Thursday already!)
Zadar coat of arms in colour!
Tuesday lunch with desserts, mmmm.
Tuesday sunset on the city side (From the hotel coridor)
and on the water side *chinhands*
A guided walking tour through Zadar: Kapetanova kula (Captain's tower) at Five Well Square (level 1+2 from 13th century, level 3 - 5 from 18th century.
Our guide sneaked us inside Crkva sv. Šimun (Church of St. Simon) to see the reliquary of St. Simon, held aloft by two bronze angels cast from captured Turkish cannons. (Crafted in 1380 by Francesco from Milan, a goldsmith living in Zadar).
Crkva sv. Donata (9th century Church of St. Donatus) and Roman forum by night.
Picture of Mary with Jesus child in the wall of Crkva Gospe od Zdravlja (Church of Our Lady of Health)
Tuesday dinner: Double Cheeseburger & Pomfrit
Dessert: two scoops of icecream: Badem (Almond with pistachio, honey, oranges, figs & sesame) and Kruška (Williams Pear)
Wednesday breakfast.
My laptop bag, ready to work!
Wednesday lunch with desserts.
At the end of today's meeting we walked out to the beach for a group photo. I snapped some photos of the beautiful water.
I spend the extra half hour free time in the icecold seawater pool at the hotel. I swam for half an hour, very refreshing, great to clear my head from the workday :-)
Fancy hosted dinner with four courses:
1. Prociutto with cheese, walnuts and almonds
2. Risotto with chicken and cheese
(Drink is sour cherry juice, nice!)
3. Main course: gnocchi with beef and gravy
4. Dessert: Chocolate mousse cake
Thursday breakfast and lunch (I mixed orange juice with cherry juice, nom!)
Lunch desserts.
Dinner: Lasagne with Orangina \o/
Thursday dessert: green apple icecream :-)
Friday breakfast.
Friday lunch with desserts.
A sunset walk along the beach.
*happy sigh*
An evening visit to the nearby supermarket: fun!
My groceries/souvenirs.
Friday dinner: Ćevapčići, prženi krumpir, ajvar (Croatian sausage, fries, bell pepper sauce)
Dessert: lavacake with vanilla icecream and whipped cream with chocolate sauce.
Day 8: Views while traveling back home
Sunrise! Breakfast (the dumplings are filled with strawberries this time).
All packed and ready to go.
Legstretch stop at the river Krka viewpoint.
West side view of bridge.
Sculpture Gospa od Puta (Our Lady of the Way) by Kruno Bošnjak and Vena Jerković.
East side view of bridge (I love bridges, okay)
View of Skradin.
Extraction Mine.
Airport: our flight to Amsterdam leaves at 12:30.
We have to walk to our plane!
My luggage in the overhead compartment (I bought some more souvenirs and put my jacket in a shoulderbag, on top of my laptop, that I have to bring on board)
No extra leg-room this time.
But a lovely view of Croatia at lift-off.
Slices of wheat bread with cheese and mayo(?).
Flying over the Alps.
The Netherlands!
Chocolatemilk, a croissant and cinnamon bun on the train home.
What a wonderful week!
J.
X-posted to https://beelikej.livejournal.com/588459.html
Lurk or comment wherever you like:)
My Dutch colleagues and I flew into big city Split and from there drove to Zadar, which is about 170 km to the North. On the way we stopped at Vransko Jezero (Lake Vrana), a nature reserve, where we spent the late afternoon bird-watching before driving on to our hotel.
On Sunday I explored the old city centre of Zadar with my British colleagues and we caught the ferry across the Zadarski Kanal to climb to a viewpoint in Preko, on the Ugljan Island. Back in Zadar we saw one of the most amazing sunsets EVER.
The conference took up most of the time from Monday to Friday and it was dark early, but I did manage glimpses of a few more of the famous sunsets. During the week I had to present quite a few briefs. I had a side meeting with the delegate from Sweden on Monday evening, but on Tuesday evening we all got to go into town for a guided walking tour in the dark. On Wednesday I swam in the -very cold- seawater pool, just before the fancy hosted dinner. Best thing on Thursday was the green apple icecream I had for dessert. On Friday I went to a supermarket, that's always exciting in another country ;-).
After a very fruitful week we traveled back home on Saturday, with a short stop at the Krka river viewpoint for a final goodbye of Croatia.
I made tons of photos, here's a selection (check out the sunsets!!!).
Day 1: Travelday(s) from the Netherlands to Croatia
Actually my travel started on the Friday before, because the Saturday flight left too early for me to get there by train on time, so I stayed in a hotel overnight, which was only a 7 minute busride away from the airport.
I was very proud I once again managed to fit my laptop bag inside my backpack, making it much easier to carry all my stuff. The hotelroom was nice and cozy, but very hot, pff.
It was a massive, funky hotel with neon lights all over and floors divided by letters. There were four (4!) restaurants, I picked the 50s styled bar and got loaded fries with beef and pear, delicious! Was glad I carry my own plastic spork everywhere, because it was served with a gross wooden fork. *shivers*
See? Massive!
Saturday breakfast: orange juice, scrambled eggs, a pancake with Dutch sugarsirop, a chocolate pastry, yoghurt & cornflakes.
Bit of a surprise at boarding: I was moved to an emergency-exit seat with extra leg-room!
Only a two hour flight, but we did get a snack (two slices of wheat bread with eggsalad) and I did a bit of reading before dozing off.
Hello Croatia!
Sights on our drive from Split to Zadar. I was relaxing in the back seat :-)
Our lunch stop: M. and I had a massive mixed-grill that could have fed five people (yes, we finished all of that *grins*) Miješano meso: kotlet, kobasica, pileći file, 4 čevapa (Mixed meat: cutlet, sausage, chicken fillet, 4 kebabs)
Around 16:00 (4 p.m.) we reached nature reserve Vransko Jezero (Lake Vrana) were we went bird watching.
With two bird-nerds in our group we discovered a lot, I had a great time :-)
After that nature walk we drove around the lake from Crkvine to Kamenjak on the other side, were we got out of the car again and started climbing following these crosses to the top that lead to tiny Crkva Svih Svetih (Chapel of All Saints)
We took the educational path to the viewpoint, learning about the karst relief, also known as 'the stone desert'. Under the influence of water, steep limestone cliffs are gradually transformed into cracks, crevices and vertical cuts resembling furrows in solid rock. The karst of Kamanjak is unique because various developmental karren stages are present simultaneously and over time merge with one another.
The view over the lake (and the Vrgadski Kanal + Adriatic Sea in the distance) and my first sunset in Croatia, aaahw.
We arrived at the hotel in Zadar around 19:30 (7:30 p.m.). I had a lovely double room with a balcony (with I will show later). Also: a bath, yay! (You can just see it, in the corner)
After that huge mixed-grill lunch I didn't feel like a full dinner, but I couldn't resist the dessert table :-D. Had orange juice and sour cherry juice with chocolate pudding, a red fruit crumble and chocolate mousse layer cake.
A splendid end to a splendid travelday!
Day 2: Exploring Zadar and the ferry to Preko
I woke up at 6:30 and took a photo of my balcony with its wooden sunscreen. (Around the edges there is a lovely view, which I will share later).
I want back to bed for a while, then had a big breakfast, trying all the things from the buffet: scrambled eggs, tortilla, Bučnica sa sirom (homemade cheese pie), a salty sausage, rice and bread. Also: orange juice and raspberry yoghurt...
... and fruitcocktail, bananabread plus pastries. *rubs belly*
Hotel pool. My room is right in the corner where the buildings meet, behind the two tall trees, on the third floor.
I went into town with my British colleagues. Check out that cool pothole cover with Zadar's coat of arms. Later I also discovered a more graphic, modern version (I will share that in my Instagram).
The old city Land Gate (1543) and the citywall with the marina just outside.
You can walk along the citywall to the boulevard near the waterfront.
Trg Pet Bunara (Five Wells Square), dating back to 1574.
Monument for Baron Ludwig Franz von Welden who established the first public park in Zadar within Bastion Grimani in 1829.
From the bastion looking out over Trg Petra Zoranica with underneath glass some archeological finds of Roman foundations.
The outer wall of the bastion.
The roman pillar on the square was moved there from the forum site (see below) to indicate the beginning of the main street (which has three different names). Behind it the tower of Crkva sv. Šimun (Church of St. Simon, 5th century).
Spotted in an alley off mainstreet.
Crkva sv. Donata (9th century Church of St. Donatus - after a misunderstanding about the name, we called it the Donut church :-D) and the Campanile di Sant'Anastasia (12th century bell tower)
Benediktinski samostan sv. Marija (11th century Benedictine Monastery of St. Maria)
Roman forum, built between the 1st century BC and 3rd century AD under Emperor Augustus. It was the centre of public life, with temples and council chambers.
After walking around through history, we ended up at the waterfront, looking out over the islands across the Zadarski kanal.
We sat down on these marble steps, listening to the soothing sound of the Morske orgulje (Sea Organ) designed by Nikola Bašić. A system of tubes underneath take in the waves that push the air out through openings on the side of the steps and on top of the pavement, creating panflute like music.
Right next to the steps of the Sea Organ is part two of Nikola Bašić art piece: a 22 m diameter circle of solar panels, forming art installation Pozdrav suncu (The Greeting to the Sun), that comes alive at night with a light show. Wikipedia page about the monument.
We continued our walk around the Zadar peninsula to the harbour site; gate Vrata Sv. Krsevana.
We had planned a lunch before our ferry ride, but it took so long to prepare, we could just about have the servers make it a to-go package to take with us on our run to catch the ferry across the street. Made it with our chicken nuggets :-D
Ferry to Preko on Uglian Island.
Passing Ošljak Island.
Statue of St. Michael, the patron saint of Preko (by Antona Jurkića, 2017)
We decided to climb to the nearest viewpoint, about 1.5 km.
We passed lots of olive trees along the way and had a great view of Ošljak Island and Zadar in the distance.
Made it to Vidikovac Napoleonova kapa (Završće), the Napoleon's Hat viewpoint, so named because of the shape of Ošljak Island. Završće was a rest area in ancient times, where farm laborers woud rest on their way back home from the olive groves.
We took the big car ferry back to Zadar (can you spot the viewpoint?)
This ferry doesn't go to the city side, but docks at the bigger harbour in the south. We took a bus to get back to the hotel. Here's my loot from today, including a few Croation euro coins :-)
After a quick fresh up, I met up with A. for a walk along the boulevard to watch the sunset (prepare yourself!).
We came across the statue of Croatian malacologist Špiro Brusina (1845-1909).
And then it was time for... THE SUNSET:
After dark the Pozdrav suncu lightinstallation lit up. I did make a video, but there are too many kids on it, so I can't share it on YouTube. It was a great experience with the sound of the Morske Orgulje from the water and the AMAZING sunset in the background as well. *heart eyes*
A. and I met up with M. and together we wandered through town looking for a place to eat.
Stup srama (Pilar of shame), Erected by Bulgarian Emperor Ivan Asen II in 1331.
Two of the three Roman Effigies, dating back to roman times.
Katedrala sv. Stošije (Anastazije) - Cathedral of Saint Anastasia (12th century)
Dinner: Spaghetti Carbonara and a Sunrise Mocktail.
Dessert: Cheesecake icecream!
I ended the day in a luke warm bath to soak my tired legs and feet.
An excellent day.
Day 3-7: Workweek breakfasts, lunches, and dinners
As I said I didn't have much time to go out, except for dinner (breakfast and lunch were served at the hotel, which was also the site for our conference). So this is mostly photos of food :-)
As promised: the view from my balcony! (6:52 a.m.)
Monday Breakfast: omelet, scrambled eggs, salty sausage, bread and Okruglice sa Šljivama (Plum Dumpling)
Lunch and Dinner: Pizza Gušti (tomato sauce, mozzarella, ham, bacon, sausage, dry neck pepperoni, olives, marinade, basil)
There was a thunderstorm on Monday night with lightning over the islands!
View through the balcony shutter.
On Tuesday morning I have some free time, because there is an optional brief I can skip. (It's mostly a sales pitch for a program I'm not working with;-)
Yesterday evening I wrote some postcards, so I'm off to the post office.
It's about a 15 minute walk.
Uh-oh, what letter do I need to push for the right queue ticket? Fortunately an old lady walks in who helps me out when I wave my postcards at her.
The man at the desk puts stamps on them and stamps them too! (They arrived in the Netherlands on Thursday already!)
Zadar coat of arms in colour!
Tuesday lunch with desserts, mmmm.
Tuesday sunset on the city side (From the hotel coridor)
and on the water side *chinhands*
A guided walking tour through Zadar: Kapetanova kula (Captain's tower) at Five Well Square (level 1+2 from 13th century, level 3 - 5 from 18th century.
Our guide sneaked us inside Crkva sv. Šimun (Church of St. Simon) to see the reliquary of St. Simon, held aloft by two bronze angels cast from captured Turkish cannons. (Crafted in 1380 by Francesco from Milan, a goldsmith living in Zadar).
Crkva sv. Donata (9th century Church of St. Donatus) and Roman forum by night.
Picture of Mary with Jesus child in the wall of Crkva Gospe od Zdravlja (Church of Our Lady of Health)
Tuesday dinner: Double Cheeseburger & Pomfrit
Dessert: two scoops of icecream: Badem (Almond with pistachio, honey, oranges, figs & sesame) and Kruška (Williams Pear)
Wednesday breakfast.
My laptop bag, ready to work!
Wednesday lunch with desserts.
At the end of today's meeting we walked out to the beach for a group photo. I snapped some photos of the beautiful water.
I spend the extra half hour free time in the icecold seawater pool at the hotel. I swam for half an hour, very refreshing, great to clear my head from the workday :-)
Fancy hosted dinner with four courses:
1. Prociutto with cheese, walnuts and almonds
2. Risotto with chicken and cheese
(Drink is sour cherry juice, nice!)
3. Main course: gnocchi with beef and gravy
4. Dessert: Chocolate mousse cake
Thursday breakfast and lunch (I mixed orange juice with cherry juice, nom!)
Lunch desserts.
Dinner: Lasagne with Orangina \o/
Thursday dessert: green apple icecream :-)
Friday breakfast.
Friday lunch with desserts.
A sunset walk along the beach.
*happy sigh*
An evening visit to the nearby supermarket: fun!
My groceries/souvenirs.
Friday dinner: Ćevapčići, prženi krumpir, ajvar (Croatian sausage, fries, bell pepper sauce)
Dessert: lavacake with vanilla icecream and whipped cream with chocolate sauce.
Day 8: Views while traveling back home
Sunrise! Breakfast (the dumplings are filled with strawberries this time).
All packed and ready to go.
Legstretch stop at the river Krka viewpoint.
West side view of bridge.
Sculpture Gospa od Puta (Our Lady of the Way) by Kruno Bošnjak and Vena Jerković.
East side view of bridge (I love bridges, okay)
View of Skradin.
Extraction Mine.
Airport: our flight to Amsterdam leaves at 12:30.
We have to walk to our plane!
My luggage in the overhead compartment (I bought some more souvenirs and put my jacket in a shoulderbag, on top of my laptop, that I have to bring on board)
No extra leg-room this time.
But a lovely view of Croatia at lift-off.
Slices of wheat bread with cheese and mayo(?).
Flying over the Alps.
The Netherlands!
Chocolatemilk, a croissant and cinnamon bun on the train home.
What a wonderful week!
J.
X-posted to https://beelikej.livejournal.com/588459.html
Lurk or comment wherever you like:)
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Date: 2025-11-04 12:21 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2025-11-16 12:55 pm (UTC)