beelikej: (Zomerhitte)
[personal profile] beelikej
A travelpost unrelated to work! I scheduled two separate weeks for my summervacation. For my week in July, I wanted to travel to Spijkenisse in the South-West of the Netherlands, to visit The Bridges of Europe, an applied arts project by Robin Stam (2011-2013) who actually built the non-existing bridges that are featured on the backsides of Euro banknotes. When I checked out if there was anything else worth visiting nearby, I found a watertowerhotel in Dordrecht (the oldest city in Holland, 1120) from where I could explore wetland area The Biesbosch, that was also on my wishlist!
I had a lovely couple of days; I read on the train, cycled around on my rented bike, went on ferries and boattrips, and was spoiled with views and bubblebaths. On my way back I stopped in 's Hertogenbosch, birthplace of 14th century artist Hieronymus Bosch (aka Jheronimus or Jeroen), so I got some culture in as well. Here is a massive picspam of all the things.

Day 1: Eurobridges in Spijkenisse & Cycling in Dordrecht
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I took me about 2,5 hours to reach Spijkenisse by train and tram/subway, from the station it's a short walk to the neighbourhood with the banknote bridges. They represent architectural styles from various periods in Europe's history. In the front you can see the yellow 200 euro bridge with behind it the blue 5 euro bridge.

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These bridges are made from a concrete base with coloured concrete panels placed on the sides and most of them are bicycle or pedestrian bridges, so they are not as huge as they appear on the Euro notes (designed by Robert Kalina 1996). I posted pictures of all of them on my Instagram. Mission accomplished!

I walked back to the station, took the subwaytram to Rotterdam and got on a train to Dordrecht.

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In Dordrecht I rented an OV-bike with my traincard. Of course I first cycled the wrong way and ended up near the harbour, ahem. But I was very impressed with that bridge structure and happy to have discovered it.

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The right route took me through a lovely park area and I was thrilled to spot the watertower hotel through the trees!

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My suite was on the 8th floor (the owner is the only one allowed to go higher up) and had amazing views AND A BATHTUB. There was also a lovely restaurant on the ground floor, but that was closed on Mondays, so I had to cycle to town for food.

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After freshening up, I got on my bike for a short look around Dordrecht before dinner. This old town is definitely worth a more extensive visit, I was charmed by the architecture and history.

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Dordrecht Minster or Church of Our Lady (Grote Kerk of Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk) and Leuvebrug

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The Church started as a chapel round 1100, so dates back to the very beginning of Dordrecht.
Catharijnepoort (1652), one of two remaining city gates.

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Huis Bever-Schaap (1658, probably built by Martinius van der Pijpen), Willem van Beveren ('beavers') was married to Cornelia Schaap (Sheep), hence the beaver and sheep in the family crest on top. No explanation on the hugging mermen on the wall though.
I had dinner at Bregje, where you can get a three-course meal for only 19,95 euros! I added freshly baked bread with garlic and a couple of mocktails (Passionfruit Nojito and a Twisted Ginger Ale), so I spent a little more than that. Worth it!

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Starter: carpaccio with cheese. Main: pork tenderloin wrapped in bacon, with vegetables and fries.

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Dessert: Passionfruit Trifle (passionfruit icecream, vanilla-mascarpone mousse, biscuit and meringefoam)

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I cycled back to the watertower in about 30 minutes.

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Ended the day in a bubblebath (salty caramel foam) and finished Mort by Terry Pratchett.


Day 2: Whisperboat through the Biesbosch wetland
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View from my 8th floor suite :-)

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More views: from my window up top and from the restaurant below.

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Freshly prepared breakfast with warm bread, a boiled egg, squeezed orangejuice, yoghurt & strawberries, and custom made tea (Earl Grey with steamed milk and sugar).
View from my window towards the wetlands; can you spot the water in the distance?

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A heron on top of the lamppost!
I got on my bike to cycle to the Biesbosch wetlands.

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Crossed the Nieuwe Merwede river by ferry!

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On 18–19 November 1421, the Saint Elisabeth's flood flooded large parts of southern Holland, causing Dordrecht to become an island. Even after the land was gained back over the years, subsequent storms turned the surrounding area into a fresh water wetland, the Biesbosch.

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Just as I crossed the bridge to the Biesbosch Museum (hidden in those grasscovered pyramids) it started to rain. It didn't last long, but a good opportunity to try my new poncho :-)

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I visited the museum about the history of the area before getting on a boat to explore.

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It was a glorious boat tour, the boat was silent, but unfortunately the captain did.not.stop.talking. Interesting stuff, but a bit of quiet in between would have been even nicer; I was exhausted from all the information.

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Back at the museum, I went on a short walk, found a bench to sit down for a late lunch and managed to finally enjoy nature in silence, pfff.

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Cycled back, spotted swans on the way to the ferry.

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Sat down for dinner at the hotel: burger and fries.

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Dessert: vanilla, pistachio and raspberry ice cream and sorbet with whipped cream.
Saw the sunset from my room *chinhands*


Day 3: Bubbelbaths, more cycling & Walking through the wetlands
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Another scrumptious breakfast, excellent choice to put the hot egg on the warm farm bread, mmm.
No plans today, but bubblebath and a new book: Temeraire by Naomi Novik (UK title, the original USA title is His Majesty's Dragon, first book of the Temeraire series)

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I have lunch at the hotel: farm bread with apple, goat's cheese and honey.
Then I go to the 7th floor viewing platform to walk around the water tower.

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See how the stairs don't connect to my 8th room floor?
Fortunately not a lot of people visit the platform; it also offers a great view of my room, haha!

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Gosh, it's so pretty up here.

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At the end of the afternoon, I decide to cycle to the Biesbosch again, this time to do a nature hike on my own. I follow part of the cycling network of the Netherlands (route 42/43 for those interested)

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I park my bike and follow the walking trail.

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I have no experience with walking trails, and am surprised how hard it is to follow and see the actual trail.

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I did manage to get lost, so I had to track back, and then got lost again! I was very relieved to eventually find the bicycle path, even if it wasn't were I was intended to end up, at least I knew where I was, pfew.

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To calm my nerves from that adventure, I chose to walk down the track a little bit to a hidden bench with a view of the water that I had discovered at the start of my long hike. I sat down to read for about an hour and then I saw a kingfisher fly by! That made me so very happy :-)

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I got hot food at a nearby Donër Kebab: when I ordered to go, the guy gave me all separate boxes with a pita bread, shoarma meat, sauce and vegetables. I created my own meal (without the vegetables) and ate my dinner with my feet in the cool bath. I had also bought a drink and dessert at the local supermarket: lemon Fanta and mandarin cheesecake (Skyr).
Afterwards I filled the tub with warm water and bubbles again for a long read in the bath. (Foam was apple crumble scent this time)


Day 4: Art & Food in 's Hertogenbosch (Hieronymus Bosch & Bossche Bollen!)
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Final day, another delicious breakfast, no photo, instead look at that mosaic on the bar!
Time to say goodbye.

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Bye water tower hotel suite.
I brought my bike back to the station and got on the train to 's Hertogenbosch (aka Den Bosch)

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Dragonfountain! (1903 Jules Dony) - 's Hertogenbosch was nicknamed 'Marsh Dragon' during the Eighty Years' War (1568-1648) by poet Joost van den Vondel (1587-1679).

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On the right: one of the pylons on the side of the Wilhelmina brug, depicting the long history of Den Bosch: 1559, the first bisshop (sine onere nihil = "nothing without effort") and the 1566 Beeldenstorm (Iconoclastic Fury) - the outbreaks of destruction of religious images that occurred in Europe in the 16th century.

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Yay, my first Hieronymus Bosch sight! This figure is depicted on one of his triptychs: the Hell part of the Garden of Earthly Delights.
St. Jan's Kathedraal (St. John's Church, 1220)

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Bronze statue of St john the Evangelist, patron Saint of 's Hertogenbosch (1964, Mari Andriessen) with an eagle on his shoulder.
At then end of my short walk through town I reach the start of a very special boat tour along the old Binnendieze waterway, that runs through and underneath Den Bosch.

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I have time for a quick sweet bite before getting on the boat: Zomerbubbel (Summerbubble: sparkling water with elderflower, mint and strawberries) and a raspberry cheesecake.

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Along the waterway there are more figures from Hieronymus Bosch's paintings, full of symbolism.

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We sail underneath old monasteries.

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See that low tunnel in the citywall? We just came out of that with our boat!
On the right you see watergate 'Groote Hekel', originally this was the most important water inlet in the city walls. To prevent unwanted visitors, the openings could be closed by iron portcullises. The pins of these resembled 'flax hekels', hence the name.

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Whatever you think of when you see this creature, yeah, that's exactly what Hieronymus Bosch (1450-1516) intended :-p

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The captain of our tiny boat, dropped me off at the Hieronymus Bosch Art Center in the former St. Jacob church.
As I arrived just before the hour, I first sat down for the Astronomical clock, a reproduction of the one that was there in Jeroen's time, depicting hell and heaven.

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All through the church there are massive figures from Hieronymus Bosch paintings (I only found the name of one creator: Nanda van Alebeek)

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There was also a section with reproductions of sketches of Hieronymus Bosch.

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My favorite triptych: The Garden of Earthly Delights (Dutch: De tuin der lusten), named after the center panel. When the panels are closed you see the Creation of the World.
Opened, the left panel shows The Garden of Eden with Adam and Eve, the right panel is The Hell.
I have the middle part as a curtain on my front door and even after years of looking I still haven't discovered every figure.

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I took the elevator up to the viewing tower of the art centre.
Back in the city centre: a statue of Hieronymus Bosch in front of his house/workshop (second building from the left corner)

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Last but not least, I visited the Bossche Bollen Experience, a tribute to the chocolate pastry that 's Hertogenbosch is famous for.

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It was an interactive mini museum with chocolate tasting in between!

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I loved their hilareous take on Hieronymus Bosch, replacing fruit with Bossche Bollen. The ticket included tea and a treat, woohoo!

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Adorable building too <3
More Adam & Eve in streetart!

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For dinner I started on the waterfront, but unfortunately had to move inside of the restaurant when I discovered they had opened the deck for smokers, yuck.
I did enjoy my ribs and fries eventually.

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Got icecream outside (green pandan, orange guave and white chocolate with raspberries) before taking the train back home (yay, more reading!).
My loot!


The End; for now it's back to work (But there will be another summervacationweek in September:-)

J.

X-posted to https://beelikej.livejournal.com/587773.html">
Lurk or comment wherever you like:)

Date: 2025-08-03 04:26 pm (UTC)
cassiopeia7: (Default)
From: [personal profile] cassiopeia7
What a magnificent record of your travels! I especially loved the waterlands, the water tower hotel, the food, and the Bosch displays. Looking good, lady! Your vacations are always such fun to read about ... thank you for sharing!

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